Sydenham Common Route & what to see |
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london-footprints.co.uk |
200 years ago the area this walk will take you around was Sydenham Common. Covering 500 acres it had undulating hills, streams and valleys. It was used for grazing animals, collecting wood, recreation, hunting and fairs. However in 1810 an enclosure act was passed, ownership passed to local landowners and major changes occurred. This walk was entered into a competition to design a Lewisham Heritage Trail and was adapted to meet their criteria from one I had already led. The additional information page consists mostly of follow-up ideas many suited to children.There are some pubs on the route but not all serve food. There are cafes near Sydenham Station. Wells Park is suitable for picnics
The walk is circular from
Sydenham Station. Buses 75 122 176 194 202 312 450
It is about 3 miles (5 km) and is all pavement or hard paths but
there are some inclines
There are some pubs along the
route: the Talma (Wells Park Road), the Woodman & the Fox
(Kirkdale) and the Railway (Sydenham Road).
The nearest cafs to the start/finish are the Hilltop Cafe near
the railway bridge and Sema's Cafe on the corner of Silverdale.
There are other shops & places to eat further along Sydenham
Road. On the route you could picnic in Sydenham Wells Park.
From Sydenham Station cross
Sydenham Road and stand on the railway bridge
170 years ago you would have been standing on an earlier bridge
over the Croydon Canal which had been built in 1809. Boats were
available for hire on a Sunday from the coal merchants
wharf and you could row to Croydon. In 1836 the canal was bought
by the London & Croydon Railway who replaced it with their
track. Between 1903 and 1979 there was a station booking hall on
the bridge. A new road off Venner Road has been named Canal Walk.
Walk west along Sydenham Road
In 1908 T W Williams who had been the manager of the London &
South Western Bank (later Barclays) at No. 262 was due to stand
trial for obtaining money under false pretences when he was found
to have committed suicide. He had been prominent in local affairs
and his name is to be found on a number of foundation stones in
the area.
Look across the road
Before the enclosure you could have watched the Old Surrey Hunt
setting off from the Greyhound. This was Sydenham oldest inn,
built around 1720 with a Victorian extension on the front. It
would have been adjacent to the canal when that was in existance.
The ladies outfitters on Cobb's Corner was founded by Walter Cobb
in 1860 and extended on 1902. In 1940 three quarters of the shop
with its contents was destroyed in an air raid but business
continued in the undamaged part. It was restored and re-built
after the war.
Stop outside the the Kirkdale
Care Centre (Old Cedars)
In 1800 James Bulcock who lived in the Old Cedars was the victim
of a highwayman operating in the area. This house had been built
on the edge of the common in the 18th century.
Continue along Westwood Hill
The development of the common in the 19th century
finally drove out the gipsies for whom the area had been a
favourite haunt. Famous people such as Pepys and Byron record
having their fortunes told by the Sydenham gipsies.
Go left along Hall Drive
This was the former drive to Sydenham Hall, the home of the
builder Edward Strong the Younger. The house was rebuilt around
1805, became a school in the 1900s and was demolished in 1939.
At the end turn right into
Lawrie Park Gardens
In the 17th century you would have been in the middle
of Coopers Wood, a protected area of woodland. Before the
16th century much of the common was still heavily
wooded but with the establishment of the shipbuilding industry at
Deptford a lot of the timber was felled.
Stop when you reach a
crossroads
To the left a large oak tree on the roundabout marks the boundary
with Bromley Borough. In 1871 the French painter Camille Pissarro
painted the view towards St Bartholmews Church, a picture
now in the National Gallery. View this image
Go along Lawrie Park Avenue
towards the church
In the Victorian period its elevated position would have made
this a desirable part of Sydenham with attractive large houses,
some of which remain.
Left along Westwood Hill
From 1854 until 1936 the ridge ahead would have been dominated by
the Crystal Palace building.
Stop when you reach Sydenham
High School
The school moved into Horner Grange, a Gothic mansion of 1883,
and its outbuildings in the 1930s. It was restored after a fire
in 1997/8
Continue as far as
Charleville Circus
This is directly over the 2km long railway tunnel dug through
Sydenham Hill by the London, Chatham & Dover Railway in 1862.
Cross over and take the
footpath opposite continuing along Ormanton Road
There are self-build houses, based on the Walter Segal concept.
At the bottom cross over into
Sydenham Wells Park
The park, which had previously been fields opened in 1901. The
former boating pond has been made into a playground with water
features. There are spring-fed lakes.
Bear right then go ahead
between the fences (lake on left). Keep to the left of the brick
building (toilets & information) then go right towards a
drinking fountain and noticeboard. From this go straight across
the grass and exit into Wells Park Road.
From the 1640s until the 1830s you could have taken the medicinal
waters at cottages located around the Sydenham Wells. The last of
the well cottages (the Green Dragon) was destroyed by bombing in
1944.
Cross and go right along
Wells Park Road (formerly Wells Road)
The District Electricity Supply Works were located to the left in
the 1890s.
Continue to Mill Gardens
Until the 1880s there was a windmill standing here along with
cottages built in 1820 - 1830 which remained until 1961.
Take the next left into
Halifax Street
In 1891 the residents of this street (then called Hanover Street)
included: at No.1 Sarah Ann Blick, a widow and her 4 sons Arthur
(23) a printer, Walter (21) a cheesemongers assistant,
William (16) an apprentice compositor and Alfred (14) an office
boy together with Eliza (32) a schoolmistress niece; at No.3
Elizabeth Norris (52) a widow and 3 lodgers Fred (52) a fancy
worker, James (50) a decorator and Charles (48) a carpenter; at
No.5 George Lillywhite (35) a coachman, his wife Ellen (31) their
3 children Beatrice (7), Frank (4) and Maud (2) together with a
lodger Thomas (20) a groom and at No.7 Ann Hurst (56) a widow
working as a laundress and her 4 children Sarah (34) also a
laundress, Henry (24) a gardener, Jane (21) a dressmaker and
Eliza (17) a domestic servant. Quite a lot of people in 4 small
houses!
Follow this road round
Note at the end the flint-knapped rear of the Woodman pub.
Several pub names recall the uses of the common.
At the end go left into
Kirkdale
For the Victorians this and part of Dartmouth Road was the main
shopping centre of Sydenham and was known as the High Street
(until 1936). For a number of years in the last century there was
a laundry next to the Woodman. The two weatherboarded cottages on
the right would have been some of the first buildings to have
been built on the common after its enclosure.
Go right into Charlcote Grove
Number 2 (then Charles Street) was the home of John Scott
Russell, involved with the construction of Brunels Great
Eastern ship at his yard in Millwall.
At the end you come into
Baxters Field. Follow the path that goes across (not
around) the field
In 1867 George Baxter, who had developed a new colour printing
technique, was killed by a horse drawn vehicle. This open space
was named after him.
Leave the field and continue
along Radlet Avenue. Take the first right into Round Hill and go
into the side road opposite number 3
The church spire came from St Antholin in Watling Street, built
by Christopher Wren in the 1680s. It was moved to Round Hill
House (demolished in the 1860s) as a folly around 1850.
Return to Round Hill and
continue to the end
Two large handsome houses of 1857 on the right hand side have
been incorporated into the Courtside development.
Go left into Dartmouth Road
The library has an attractive frontage. This was built next to
the Girls' Industrial Home (1890) and swimming baths (1885).
Cross and retrace your steps.
Go left into Sydenham Park Road then left into Albion
Villas Road
Numbers 5/6 were the site of the Sydenham Children's Hospital
1872-85. At the end is Sydenham's Millennium Green.
Returm to and continue along
Sydenham Park Road
Sydenham Park was laid out on the site of a reservoir belonging
to the canal company which was drained in 1836. This had provided
top-up water but also recreational facilities (swimming, skating
& duck-shooting).
Take the first right into
Sydenham Park and walk to the end
The congregational chapel is now in use as a fitness centre. St
Bartholmews National School was replaced by the R C Church
(1974).
Cross Kirkdale
In 1792 several thousand soldiers engaged in mock battles here,
an event watched by a large crowd including the royal family of
George III.
Go across to the fountain
In the early part of the last century the site behind this (now
retirement homes) would have been occupied by the telephone
exchange. Dialling SYD 1 at that time would have connected you to
Cobbs store. Prior to this it had been a public hall and earlier
the Fir Lodge School, attended by Ernest Shackleton.
Take the road to the right of
the fountain Jews Walk
This led to Westwood House (built 1766) the home of Lady
Charlotte Campbell, a lady in waiting to Caroline, Princess of
Wales. It became the Teachers Orphanage (1899 - 1939) and
was demolished in 1952 to be replaced with the Sheenewood Estate.
Number 7 was the home of Eleanor, daughter of Karl Marx. In 1898
she took her own life here by drinking prussic acid, having
discovered her lover had secretly married.
At the end turn left into
Westwood Hill
Number 12 (marked with a blue plaque) was the home of the
Shackleton family from which Henry practised as a doctor. There
were 8 daughters and two sons including Ernest, who was to become
famous as an Antarctic explorer.
Walk through the churchyard
of St Bartholomews Church
This was designed by Lewis Vuillamy and built in 1827-32 but did
not become the parish church until 1856. To the right of the
entrance path is a memorial to men killed whilst working on the
construction of the Crystal Palace. The first vicar Charles
English has an unusual tomb depicting a church.
Continue along Westwood Hill
to the road junction
In the 1920s doctors occupied the old parsonage which had been
built for Charles English in 1848. It was replaced by Kirkdale
Corner in the 1930s.
Sydenham Station is just ahead on the left
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