A Green Lambeth Walk Route & what to see |
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london-footprints.co.uk |
A circular walk around parks and green spaces in Lambeth and west Southwark from Waterloo Station. There are 5 sections which can be walked as follows: 1/2/3/4/5 (5 miles), 2/3/5, 2/5, 1 (1 miles), 1/2/3/5, 2/4/5, 2/3/4/5 (3 miles), 1/2/4/5, 1/2/5, 1/2/4/5
Note: many of the parks are gated and open during daylight hours. Seating is provided in most gardens. Unless indicated they are accessible to wheelchairs.
Section 1
Exit into Waterloo Road. From main station use exit 2 opposite
platform 5 (escalators or lift available). Cross and go left
along Waterloo Road to the church of St Johns.
St John the Evangelist by Francis Bedford is one of the
Waterloo churches built in 1822-4. The church was
badly bombed in WWII and in 1951 was restored and opened to serve
as the parish church of the Festival of Britain. The churchyard
was transformed into a garden in 1877 and social reformer Octavia
Hill has traditionally been connected with it. North of the
church are a number of fine tombs and a War Memorial. A garden of
remembrance was created in 2000 and there are mosaics [pix] and a small playground. The St John's
Churchyard Friends Group created a community Knot Garden. www.stjohnswaterloo.co.uk
Exit into Secker Street and
go around to the left. Left at Cornwall Road and right at
Stamford Street. Left through Coin Street and right at Upper
Ground to Bernie Spain Gardens.
Named after local resident and campaigner Bernadette Spain
these occupy the site of the Eldorado Ice Cream Company premises.
Features include a rest area for cyclists.
Go through the garden to the
right, left at Stamford Street and right along Hatfields.
In the days of rural Lambeth there were fields here where beaver
skins were prepared for hat manufacture. On the right there is a
grassed area with trees. Beyond this is a small enclosed garden
(private property of Peabody estate).
Go left into Meymott Street,
left at Colombo Street then left into Paris Garden.
The 100 acre Manor of Paris Garden dates to 1113. Originally
owned by the Knights Templar it later passed to the Knights
Hospitallers. The manor house, once owned by Jane Seymour, was
acquired by the Bailiff of Southwark who opened it to the public
for bowling and gambling. Customers for the theatres and bear
gardens landed at nearby Paris Garden Stairs and often stopped
for refreshments. Its unlit wooded gardens made it a popular (and
dangerous) meeting place! In the Commonwealth period the area was
used for bleaching cloth and in the reign of Charles II was
developed with housing and a church (see below).
Go into Christchurch Garden
behind the Rose & Crown pub.
The church was built in 1671 and re-built in 1738-41 with money
bequeathed by John Marshall. The churchyard was extended in 1738
and again in 1817 when adjoining cottages were demolished. It
closed to burials in 1856. In 1890-91 a Romanesque chancel was
added but the church was destroyed by bombing on 17 April 1941.
The place where the burning cross fell into the churchyard
scorching the ground is marked with stones set into the grass. In
1960 a new church, designed by R Paxton Watson and B Costin (now
the headquarters of the South London Industrial Mission Centre)
was opened. Stained glass in the church depicts Southwark
industries. In 1900 the churchyard had been laid out as a public
garden maintained by St Saviours District Board of Works. A
drinking fountain was donated by John Passmore Edwards. The
garden was renovated to designs by Marcus Beale Architects in
2000 (see plaque). There is also a wildlife area. www.christchurchsouthwark.org.uk
Exit into Blackfriars Road
This road cut through the area in 1769 when Blackfriars Bridge
was built.
Cross into Burrell Street and
walk through. By the Holiday Inn cross Southwark Street into
Hopton Street.
Hopton's Almshouses were founded by fishmonger Charles Hopton who
had died in 1730. The 26 almshouses for 'poor decayed men' of the
parish were erected in 1746-9 and opened in 1752. The residents,
who included gardeners, watermen and fishermen were also granted
6 per year and 32 bushels of coal. In 1825 two extra houses
were added. The complex includes two garden squares with centre
lawns and roses, edged with shrubs. Outside the gates is a
Drinking Fountain and Cattle Trough. The almshouses were rebuilt
and modernised in 1988 and remain used for housing owned by
Anchor Trust.
Re-cross Southwark Street and
go back along Bear Lane. Right at Dolben Street by the White Hart
and left into Gambia Street.
A section of road was made into a community garden in 2003/4 [pix].
At the end of this street
cross Union Street into Nelson Square.
The Gardens were originally for the use of residents of the
Square but in 1903 the owner Viscount Halifax gave the site to
the LCC. It was laid out at a cost of 1,400 with half met by
owners of the houses and the remainder by the LCC and Southwark
Council. The terrace of houses at one corner are the only
remaining original buildings, built between 1807 and 1810 and
possibly designed by S Cockerell. There are rose beds and six
mature plane trees. Improvements, designed by Jennifer Coe
Landscape Architects, were carried out in 2000/1 to include new
play equipment and sports areas.
Exit on the far side. Go
through to Blackfriars Road and turn left.
Helen Gladstone House Garden is a new green space on the
corner of Surrey Row. Local residents worked with the deputy
housing manager at Library Street and Bankside Open Spaces Trust
to raise funds and choose a design.
Cross Blackfriars Road then
along Ufford Street opposite. Beyond Short Street there is a
recreation ground to the right.
The area was built over in the 19th century by Samuel Short. By
1901 the houses needed rebuilding and the then owners, the
Ecclesiastical Commissioners, decided that part should be set
aside as public open space. Lambeth Borough Council agreed and
laid out the park which was transferred to them by the
Commissioners in 1907. Half the area is a playground and half is
grassed with a mahonia hedge and several mature London Plane
trees. The playround benefitted from an M&S improvement
scheme.
Exit on the far side and go
left along Mitre Road then right at Webber Street. Cross to the
Emma Cons Garden.
This commemorates the Old Vic Theatre's benefactress. The Old Vic
opened in 1818 as the Royal Coburg Theatre and changed to the
Victoria Theatre in 1833. In 1879 it was bought by public
subscription and given to the Coffee Palace Association which
provided musical and variety acts as well as lectures. It was
managed by Emma Cons, 'an ardent reformer and legendary
impresario' from 1880 until her death in 1912. The site opposite
the theatre was bombed in WWII and was derelict until purchased
by the LCC and opened as a public garden in 1958, laid out with
trees, raised grass plots and seats. The site has lighting
provided by the Old Vic and is due for refurbishment in
association with Putting Down Roots.
To return to the station go right along Waterloo Road. To continue cross into Baylis Road. Enter Waterloo Millennium Green from here.
Section 2
To access this from the station go right at Waterloo Road. Enter
Waterloo Millennium Green from Baylis Road.
This area was once part of the ancient Lambeth Marsh. The park,
created on derelict land, was opened in 2001 and is community
owned and managed. It has water features [pix], a wildflower meadow, supervised play
area and ball park. Living Space beyond the playground has a cafe
and toilets, including disabled. www.waterloogreen.org.uk
Go along Pearman Street
alongside the ambulance station (street sign is missing).
Houses along here have roof gardens (private).
Cross Westminster Bridge Road
and go along King Edward Walk opposite by Morley College. Cross
Lambeth Road into Geraldine Mary Harmsworth Park.
The Imperial War Museum occupies the remains of the Bethlem Royal
Hospital for the insane which was on the site from 1815. The
asylum was built on land known as St George's Fields, a marshy
area used for agriculture, fairs, pony races and other
entertainments. From 1731 local mineral water was sold from a
small public house which had existed since at least 1642. The pub
was renamed St George's Spa and by 1758 provided tea rooms, music
gallery, ladies' and gentlemen's baths, skittle grounds and a
bowling green. It was closed in 1799 having became notorious and
rowdy. The area was also used for archery practice and the
construction of two Commonwealth forts. The Lodge on Lambeth Road
dates from 1837 [pix] and was built when the road layout in
front of the hospital was changed. The ground gained was enclosed
and planted to designs of Sidney Smirke. In 1926 when the
hospital moved to Beckenham the land and buildings were purchased
by Viscount Rothermere, proprietor of the Daily Mail, who
presented it to the LCC for use as a public park in memory of his
mother, Geraldine Mary Harmsworth. It was opened in 1934 and in
1938 a children's lido was added. In the park is a section of the
Berlin Wall and a Soviet War Memorial to the 27 million citizens
and service personel who died for Allied victory in WWII. A tree
trail created by Trees For London links 34 native trees that
colonised Britain after the last ice age. There is a map and
information board in the Peace Garden (see below). The park has
picnic benches, cafe, a sundial, playground, playroom and sports
area. Cafe and toilet facilities are available in the Imperial
War Museum (free entry).
To join section 4 go south along Kennington Road. To join section 5 go west along Lambeth Road.
Section 3
To continue walk through the Peace Garden.
In the summer of 1996 Buddhist priests set up a peace camp
and created a sand mandala in the park. The permanent Tibetan
Garden of Contemplation and Peace was opened by the Dalai Lama in
1999. Around the garden are sculptures representing earth, air,
water and fire. The centrepiece is a Buddhist symbol associated
with peace and well-being [pix].
Exit by the rangers
lodge into St Georges Road and go right. Second right through
West Square.
In 1791 land here which belonged to the Temple West family was
leased to a Mr Hedger and houses were built. When the Bethlehem
Royal Hospital relocated, West Square with its central garden
housed the senior staff. A tower was erected on number 36 for a
shutter telegraph that conveyed messages between Whitehall and
naval establishments in Kent [pix]. By the end of the 19th
century the garden was at risk from building development and a
campaign was mounted to preserve it as an open space. The
freehold was purchased for 3,500 in 1909 by the LCC and Borough
of Southwark and the enlarged and restored garden was opened to
the public in 1910. Although scheduled under the London Squares
Preservation Act of 1931, after WWII there was a proposal to
demolish the surrounding buildings and add the area to Geraldine
Mary Harmsworth Park. The Civic Amenities Act prevented this and
the square was designated a conservation area. After WWII prefabs
were built in the square and the terraces in the north west
corner were demolished, although Charlotte Sharman School built
in 1884-5 remains on the north-west side. In the garden are old
mulberry trees, rose gardens and a tree planted to celebrate the
squares bicentenary.
Exit on the far side via
Austral Street. Cross Brook Drive and go along Sullivan Road
opposite continuing through Walcot Square.
Walcot Square was donated to the poor of St Marys Lambeth
by Edmond Walcott in his will of 1667. According to Dickens, Mr
Guppy the solicitors clerk from Bleak House
intends to set himself up professionally in the square. The green
is private property.
To join section 5 go right at Kennington Road and west along Lambeth Road
Section 4
To continue go left at Kennington Road. Cross at lights and go
right into Fitzalan Street further along.
On the right is Roots & Shoots [pix]. This charity is devoted to vocational
training, environmental education and urban conservation. The
former site of garages has a wildlife garden used by local
schools and the wider community. There is also a summer meadow,
pond, bee hives, apple trees and kiwi vines. Open days with
special events are held. www.roots-and-shoots.org/
Cross the park opposite
towards the blue chimney
Lambeth Walk Doorstep Green improvements include figures in the
tarmac paths [pix] and a new pergola garden. It has sports
areas and an adventure playground.
Exit into Lollard Street and
go right. Continue along Old Paradise Street and go left at
Newport Street alongside the railway. Go right at Whitgift Street
adjacent to arch 138 and enter Lambeth High Street Recreation
Ground on the right.
The land was originally granted to the parish by Archbishop
Thomas Tenison of Canterbury for a burial ground. The site had
been leased to a gardener, and was purchased for 120 in 1703.
It was extended in 1816 but after becoming full was closed in
1853. By 1880 it was 'very unsightly' and the vestry decided to
turn it into a public garden which was completed in 1884.
Gravestones were moved to boundary walls with the mortuary left
standing. A watch house erected on High Street for holding 'the
drunk and disorderly' in 1825 was originally left but is now gone
its site marked with a stone [pix]. The new garden was conveyed to Lambeth
Vestry and then to Lambeth Borough Council. In 1929 it was
enlarged when the site of a glass bottle factory in Whitgift
Street was purchased for 700. Since the late 1970s the
recreation ground has been re-landscaped with grassy mounds,
pergolas, shrubs and spring bulbs.
Walk through and exit into
Lambeth High Street then go right. Cross Lambeth Road to St
Marys Garden.
The site was formerly part of the old road which led to the
earlier Lambeth Bridge of 1862, replaced in 1932 by a new bridge
to the south. This small public garden was laid out by Lambeth
Borough Council in 1932-3. The outer area is grassed with shrubs,
the central area paved with a pergola, seating and a water
feature.
St Mary's Church dates from 1377
and was restored by Philip Hardwick in the 1850s. The
Tradescants, who were royal gardeners and introduced many plants
to England, are buried here in a hard sandstone tomb with high
relief carvings. They established a physic garden in South
Lambeth and their collections eventually went to the Ashmolean
Museum in Oxford. The Coade stone sarcophagus of Admiral William
Bligh, Captain of 'The Bounty', was erected in 1817. By 1971 the
church was redundant and threatened with demolition, and the
churchyard unkempt. In 1976 the Tradescant Trust was formed and
began to campaign to save the church and churchyard and turn it
into a museum for garden history. By 1979 sufficient funds had
been raised and the restored gardens, laid out by Lady Salisbury,
opened in the early 1980s. The garden has a large climbing musk
rose reputedly the largest in the country, old brick paths, a
sundial and retained gravestones.
The Garden Museum (admission charge) is open Tuesday - Sunday
10:30-5. Vegetarian cafe, shop and library. www.gardenmuseum.org.uk
Since the 13th century Lambeth Palace has been the London home of the Archbishops of Canterbury and the building incorporates fabric from that time. The main entrance is through Morton's Gateway to the south-west [pix]. The gardens and park of the medieval palace were 8 hectares but the present gardens are half that size. These were renovated by Archbishop Laing in the 1920s, with the rose terrace built in the 1930s, laid out by Beth Chatto. The gardens were restored again in 1986-88 largely at the instigation of Rosalind Runcie. The woodland was thinned, a pool created and new features added including an Elizabethan-style herb and physic garden, a Palladian temple and pleached lime hedge. There are trees grown from fig cuttings planted in the mid 1550s. A Chinese feature by Faith and Geoff Whiten which featured in the Chelsea Flower Show has been created in the garden. More recently, Archbishop George Carey and his wife concentrated on developing the wildlife potential of the garden with some 300 native trees planted and the pond renovated to encourage diversity. Future plans include developing the old orchard next to the palace and a wildflower meadow. A number of sculptural works in the garden include 'Swallows' and 'Girl with Swallows' by David Norris, and 'Mother and Child' by Lesley Emma Pover. The gardens of Lambeth Palace are open on occasions.
Go east along Lambeth Road and enter Archbishops Park to the left opposite number 109. Join the route here from section 2 or 3.
Section 5
Follow the Millennium Pathway (which has a reddish surface) then
continue on the tarmac path to the right.
Archbishop's Park was formerly part of the Bishop of Carlisle's
land that was later incorporated into Lambeth Palace Garden. From
the late 19th century half the Palace Gardens were granted as a
park for local people by Archbishop Tait. The Millennium Pathway
celebrates people, places and events that have made Lambeth
special between 1000 and 2000. The southern area of the park has
been re-landscaped with mixed planting in the dry lakebed area
and woodland planting around the edges. There are shelters, a
playground [pix], sports areas, tennis courts and trim
trail.
Exit into Lambeth Palace Road
by St Thomas Hospital and go right. Cross at the lights and
go past the large road sign. Just beyond the Florence Nightingale
Museum (signposted) go up the ramp and continue ahead along the
walkway (towards Houses of Parliament).
St Thomas Hospital was moved for the construction of London
Bridge Station and was laid out with Nightingale
wards. The northern end was damaged by WWII bombing and
rebuilding carried out. There are two connected gardens to the
right. There are steps between them but the lower garden, with a
stainless steel fountain of 1929 by Naum Gabo [pix], can be accessed from the river
terrace. Best of Friends roses have been planted.
Exit onto Westminster Bridge
by rear of County Hall building and cross this road. Wheelchairs
should continue along Belvedere Road ahead from where there is
ramped access to Jubilee Gardens. Otherwise go left and down
steps by the lion to take the Queens Walk in front of the
former County Hall. Refreshment and toilet facilities are
available here.
This was a promenade for the 1951 Festival of Britain and was
retained as public open space when the Festival finished. In the
centre of County Hall complex is a courtyard with ornamental
planting by the Marriott Hotel entrance.
Jubilee Gardens which had been the site of the Dome of Discovery,
the main feature of the Festival were designed by Neville Conder
and Stuart Taylor and opened by the Queen in 1977. They were
closed for 5 years in the 1990s while the Jubilee Line extension
was being built and re-turfed prior to permanent new landscaping
(completed in 2012). They have a cafe, playground and a memorial
to the International Brigade.
Walk across and continue
along Belvedere Road to just beyond the railway.
The Whitehouse Garden is private property but the public are
admitted from dawn to dusk. There is a water feature but no
seating. Access is by steps only.
Go along Concert Hall Approach alongside this then through Sutton Walk to the right. Cross to Waterloo Station. Wheelchair access is available from Station Approach (follow signs).
london-footprints.co.uk 2012
Resources
London Parks & Gardens Trust - Inventories for Lambeth &
Southwark [website]